FirstLight Namibia 2022 (finally)

After two years, two postponements, we finally accomplished our FirstLight Namibia Photo Expedition.  Three times we’ve done a FirstLight event there, in addition to several assignments in that incredible country, simply reinforces how much I love Namibia. I’m sharing several photos from this most recent trip, with caption and camera info below them. 

We’re looking at another Namibia Photo Expedition, intended for 2024, and we’ll update accordingly. 

This Expedition started when we flew into Victoria Falls, then a couple of days later, went by road to Botswana where we spent three nights aboard the Pangolin houseboat. From there, we picked up our aircraft in Kasane, Botswana, flying to and clearing customs in the Namibian town of Katima Mulilo. A short flight then took us to the Tsumkwe region and our destination, Nhoma Safari Camp.

Our three nights on the houseboat were just about perfect. Our group, we sadly lost one couple due to Covid, took the entirety of the 5 cabins, and having that proximity from the boat to the wildlife in the Chobe River area is astounding and wonderful

The Nhoma Camp abuts the Ju/’hoan Bushmen (or San) village of //Nhoq’ma. These peoples are one of the oldest continuous habitation sites in Africa. Living in traditional ways, modern conveniences are pretty much shunned, with a intent to live true to their history. We were fortunate to see a “healing ceremony”, an amazing event held around a campfire.

The ability to observe and document events like this, in a culture that has not been westernized or isn’t the product of globalization, is what I’ve always loved about my world of photography: the ability to get to step into someone’s life or culture, while it is still relatively “pure”.  I think those fading cultures are disappearing at rate to equal the loss of rainforests. What an amazing opportunity to see and meet these people. 

Two nights in Nhoma, then on to the Palmwag Airstrip in Damarland and the Grootberg Lodge. With one of the steepest driveways in any guest facility, the Grootberg overlooks (splendidly)the Klip River Valley. 

This was our base of operations to visit the Himba village, which was close to the small town of Sesfontein. One of the major things of love about our FirstLight Namibia Expedition is the cultural component: along with the Ju/’hoan people, the chance to spend time in a Himba village is a rare treat. A nomadic people, the Himba encampments are rarely permanent. In our original plan we hoped to visit the same village we’d been to in 2018, but those folk had moved. So, change of plans that were put in place just a couple of weeks before the Expedition led us a new site.  Fascinating as always, the experience impacts one thoroughly. 

From 2 nights at the Grootberg, it was on to one of our favorite places anywhere, Rhino Camp. Set in the desert of the Palmwag Concession, the lunar landscape is stunning. The Lodge is wonderful as well, luxury tents with a central dining area, our first night’s dinner was by the pool (that is a pretty liberal description, more like a plunge pool, or maybe a very large tub?). Early and late drives thru the area is built around the stunning landscape, something we’ve never tired of. 

            Two nights in Rhino Camp that went too quickly, we then flew on to Swakopmund, a small city on the Atlantic Coast (also known as the Skeleton Coast) for a lunch, then back to our Caravan aircraft for the flight south, then inland to Namib Naukluft National Park for three nights at a beautiful desert lodge, Dead Valley Lodge. Located within the boundaries of the Park, this allows early morning departures for the sand dunes at Sossusvlei or staying until sunset in the dunes, as other lodges outside the boundaries cannot enter the Park until sunrise and have to exit before sunset. 

            I’m always astounded by the quality of light in this place: an enveloping ambience of umber to orange to red light (light is not proper to describe this, it simply is everywhere) it almost exhausts one as looking not only for photo opps, but simply absorbing the beauty of the scene.  Each early morning and late afternoon, we’d get into our Landcruiser’s, and make the hour-long drive to the dunes. 

            When in these visually overwhelming places, the question is often asked: why don’t you put your camera down and enjoy the scene? My response is that a good photographer absolutely sees the beauty of that place, and I find the camera takes me that much more deeply into what is magical about that place and moment. The job of a photographer is to make sense of the chaos that is often in front of the camera. Sometimes it’s very obvious, often it forces the photographer to “define” what is so appealing.  One more reason I love photography: the problem-solving aspect of the craft.

Ghost town, former diamond center of Kolmanskop
Oly E-M1 MkIII 8-25mm

            So, we finally wrapped up our Covid delayed adventure. It was stressful from when we first had to postpone this adventure way back in early 2020. An attempt to reschedule to April of 2021 bit the dust, but things came together in 2022.  Thanks to all our participants, sorry for the disappointments several experienced, and here’s hoping to the future!!